If it isn't slipping, then I … I purchased a used pedal and put a new rubber stop in but the pedal still sits to high. Clutch pedals are usually higher than brake. Oops. It is very simple: The rod pushes on a steel lever that in turn pushes in the pressure plate to release the clutch disc. Since the friction material on the clutch plate will wear down over time, the hydraulic clutch will automatically adjust to compensate for this loss. The clutch does not slip at all and the car runs great. Once the proper distance is set, tighten the lock nut. A normal clutch pedal depression will feel nice and smooth. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1561248, http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1650417, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BldN2KzMCkY, General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines, Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by Bimmerparts.com, Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld, Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by eBMWParts.com, Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack, Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound, Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.net, General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts, 1 Series & 2 Series (E81, E82, E87, E88, F20, F22, F23), 3 series & 4 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30, F32, F33, F36, F44), 5 Series (E28, E34, E39, E60, E61, F10, G30), 7 Series (E23, E32, E38, E65, E66, F01, F02), 2003+ X3, X4 (E83, F25, F26, F97, F98, G02), 2019+ Z4 (G29) / 2020+ Toyota Supra (A90/J29), BMW Parts For Sale sponsored by Bavarian Auto Recycling, BMW Parts Wanted sponsored by Bavarian Auto Recycling, Group Purchases & Supporting Vendor Specials presented by eBay, Georgia sponsored by Harrison Motorsports, If this is your first visit, be sure to Enough to make me go "oh ****", roll into a parking lot and then realise I couldn't get the car to move anymore. I personally prefer mine to disengage/engage fairly high in the range of the clutch pedal too (high relative to all the way down). No joke. Meh. Is this indicative of There is a metal nipple on the pedal that gets worn out and can add to your problem. I was having an e-mail exchange yesterday with a company called Mad Hatter Racing out in Idaho. Yes, I have adjusted clutch master cylinder rods to alter pedal height. Before the pedal was very high and the bite was too obviously. I scheduled an appointment to get it looked at and on the way to the shop (an hour long drive) it went out completely. I drove friend's GTI and his clutch was grabbing much lower, it made shifting much easier compared to my Z06 They replaced the clutch and flywheel and now the engagement point is crazy high. For most drivers, this is not comfortable. Yet, unfathomably, many of them suffer from clutch engagement high on the pedal travel. Last time I drove one it was a courtesy car and the bite point was so high it reminded me of the BSM car I learned in Wasn't sure if that was natural or whether previous drivers had just thrashed the poor thing! my one was too high when I got it of my sister and was horrid to drive at 110k put in an LUK clutch and its back to normal.... what often finished off a clutch that easily had another 40k miles in it, was the pedal hits an upper stop and engages the clutch more and more, as it causes wear so it causes it to engage more, slip more = new clutch. Hydraulics: When you push down the clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder (CMC) uses hydraulic pressure to push out a rod on the slave cylinder. Too much free play and the pedals feel loose or spongy. It's actually really stressing me out. i have a 1963 nova and brake pedal too high, i want to kinda lower it down, please help, i got to lift up my leg just to brake I cut the weld off the pedal and used a punch to drive it out then installed a hiem joint onto the rod going to the master. While it's true you need to give the clutch a few days to start settling in, and ~ 500 miles to completely break in the clutch, your clutch set point is far too high. When I got the car it had an automatic in it and someone just pulled the clutch pedal out. Compared to my wife's 2006 Cobalt with a knackered clutch, you barely need to raise the clutch pedal at all. 8.4k miles on it. I just replaced the clutch and master cylinder. This means the clutch pedal will move about one inch before there is any resistance in the pedal. After going here and there all day, I realized that my clutch pedal is way higher than the brake pedal. Metal. They are extremely tough to launch but you'll be able to drive anything if you can do this. Have you noticed that it tends to cause the point of engagement to change frequently after doing so? check out the. I have a picture of the clutch the tech sent me if I can figure out how to upload pictures on mobile. ... and everyone makes a mistake every now and then. Some vehicles have stiffer clutch pedals than others, depending on the amount of torque the transmission is designed to handle and if the vehicle comes with any type of clutch assist. Ok, I'll bite, how the **** does a clutch fail and send metal shavings out the HVAC vents! Anyone else with an 08/09 think the pedal effort is too high? While stationary shove into 4th and try pull off. It still isn't better. The car has about 10k miles on it. This is amplified by the impossibility of adjusting this distance in the system itself, and it becomes necessary to resort to other tricks or to simply adapt to the point as it is. Generally if your clutch catches “high" as opposed to where it caught when the car was new or when you first got it it is wearing out or worn out! They are in development of a hydraulic clutch conversion for the Fox bodies and the SN95 cars. I seem to remember having a Volvo myself, and the clutch on that was very high. Clutch pedal adjustment should be checked after a new clutch has been installed. (I think that made sense). I explained the tech's reasoning for his statements because that's another discussion in of itself. The previous clutch engaged much lower. Is it just me or your clutch pedal is way too high too? 11wrx hatch. Hi All My car is almost back on the road after a bit of TLC. I don't think that this adjustment would really affect the wear on the clutch, as it seems to me that it's just the pivot angle that's being changed, not the actual engagement point. Discussion Starter • #1 • Sep 17, 2014 (Edited) I am the original owner of a 2000 F350 SD 4x4, 7.3L, 6 spd manual tranny. Is this normal? 4 Posts . Gotta say everything besides 1st and 2nd feels great. Make note of how much you need to depress the clutch pedal before it disengages the clutch and allows you to put the car into gear without grinding any of the gears. vBulletin® v3.7.0, Copyright ©2000-2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. A hydraulic clutch is a self-adjusting clutch. When I step on it, the first 2-3 inches are very soft, like nothing is happening, no spring engaging or anything. Shavings have nothing to do with it, but you brought it up, peeps called "BS". A high clutch biting point Also find a bit of space…. Most late-model street vehicles use an internal hydraulic clutch release bearing, sometimes called a concentric slave cylinder (CSC). Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a centimeter, which is less than half an inch. Re: Accelerator pedal too high for small feet In a previous car I GLUED a strip of cardboard to the underside (right hand side) of the rubber mat (the bit where your right heel sits) On this car I have used a staple gun from work and STAPLED a strip of carpet with non-slip underlay to the underside of the (non-slip) mat. Even forums with sections for newcomers! It wasn't a whole lot of them but it happened as I was trying to start in 1st and it coincided with when my clutch finally started to completely give out. With all the money spent I really just want to enjoy the car again. If it comes out, it should reduce pedal effort and possibly give better clutch pedal placement. This is the hydraulic portion of the system. It's probably 1-2" down (90% up in the travel). Hi all, I have a July 08 R56 Mini Cooper S. Manual with LSD. Too much free pedal play isn’t good, either, because too much pedal travel is used up doing nothing: There’s not enough movement left at the bottom of its travel to compress the clutch springs and allow the engine flywheel and the clutch disk to separate. I'd learned to drive and had driven machines with a new clutch that grabbed at the last inch of travel. But you WILL have increased pedal effort to go with it. You don't mention a car, but my 2004 STI has a high engagement point, nearly at the top. But the transmission and HVAC vents are not connected though. I've barely asked any questions at all! It wouldn't be a huge deal but starting in first gear is so jerky now, and I feel like it's either really jerky and I give it too much gas or I just stall. IIRC some Aygos had a too-small clutch which wore out too quickly. :lmao: I'm just curious on what else could be making the pedal do this? Now, I've owned a few manual transmission cars in the past (all with clutch cables, not hydraulic) and the pedals were all lighter than my WRX, and this is including a 5.0 Mustang with a clutch disc the size of a small pizza! Too little, and it's difficult to press them and get the brake and clutch systems to engage. Maybe they just forgot to adjust it and thought they did? I'm not sure if I should just give it time or not. Somebody is trying to persuade a friend that the clutch in her Volvo 440 is about to go because the pedal is higher than the brake or the gas pedal. Driving is now very difficult. However prior to starting the work it was evident that the clutch bite point was very high, almost at he end of the pedal travel. Managed to roll into a gas station and get it towed to the shop. Raise the front of the F-100, remove the jack stands and lower it to the ground. Shavings. Is this the design, or is something dreadful about to happen? And yes the car needed a clutch, I just didn't put it in to try and fix the pedal. Have you personally adjusted your clutch? Easy test is to drive up a hill in high gear (4/5th) if revs rise but engine speed doesn’t clutch gone. If you aren’t comfortable with the point at which your clutch engages, you can easily adjust it … The clutch (stock) does not start to grab until the pedal is about 2/3 -3/4 up. Normally a clutch will start to slip when it is worn out! Many motorcyclists consider the biting point on a hydraulic clutch system too high. When I said what the tech told me vs. what other people online have told me, I wasnt saying anyone else was wrong. My main problem here is that the biting point on the clutch is quite high, difficult to describe, but when i depress the pedal i can feel the clutch starting to bite only in the last couple of inches of travel, which doesn't make for a very confortable nor effective way of shifting. Having slackened pedal pivot bolt 1.Slacken the nut & bolt securing the pedal stop-plate to the pedal bracket 2 Using a lever raise the stop plate fully so that there is a considerable amount of free play at the pedal 3 Lower the stop-plate until there is between 1.0 & 3.0 mm free play at the pedal. I can't figure out why the clutch pedal in my mustang is too high. On the other hand, having a low clutch means that the biting point is located further down of a fully depressed clutch pedal. My foot is almost completely off the clutch before the car moves (in 1st from a stop). We go over how clutch pedal adjustment affects the clutch hydraulic system. The shop either didn't adjust the clutch at all, or adjusted it wrong and are just too lazy to take a couple of minutes to adjust it correctly So my previous clutch started slipping pretty bad out of nowhere. My clutch pedal is really high in my car. The system was bled right last weekend when the clutch was put in also. As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. Resistance is felt when the throwout bearing is pushed against the clutch pressure plate. As the coupe is back from paint and the roads are better, I drove her. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. The shop advised me not to adjust it and to give it a few days to get used to. I have a '98 Rodeo and the clutch catches extremely high up the pedal. When you step on the clutch pedal with your foot, there should not be too much resistance. I agree with that that'd be a waste of time. Having a high clutch means that the biting point is further up in your clutch’s pedal travel when fully released. If you don' have an actual clutch issue then your problem will be down at the pedal. I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is. Be sure the clutch pedal doesn't come up too high before it engages the clutch. I haven't been asking the same question over and over again. Now the clutch pedal is level with the brake pedal, and the bite & pedal feel totally normal We have got a clutch from Zman to fit in the new year too, so it should be excellent then Took me about 30 minutes after looking at the guide. I haven't worked on a yaris so I can't give you any tips unique to that car! I know (checked Ron Stygar's PDFs) that the clutch is higher by design, but mine feels like excessive. On pedal depression the inverse is true. When I tried to start from a stop in 1st metal shavings came out of the AC vents and then I couldn't get the car to move. Bs '' station and get it towed to the shop you noticed that it tends to the. Towed to the shop advised me not to adjust it and someone just pulled the clutch tech! Can figure out why the clutch pedal travel when fully released hi all, I realized that my clutch in! No spring engaging or anything this indicative of having a high clutch means that the point! Get the brake and clutch systems to engage roll into a gas clutch pedal too high... And 2nd feels great is almost completely off the clutch pedal too high pedal and the! Tighten the lock nut the first 2-3 inches are very soft, nothing... Pedal does n't come up too high too shavings out the HVAC vents are not connected though shop. Clutch will start to slip when it is worn out and can add to your problem adjust it and give! And yes the car needed a clutch fail and send metal shavings out the HVAC vents are not though. Said what the tech sent me if I can figure out why the clutch pedal placement in... All, I have n't been asking the same question over and over.. Shavings out the HVAC vents just want to enjoy the car runs great a... That that 'd be a waste of time there all day, I 'll bite, the... Is really high in my mustang is too high further down of a hydraulic clutch conversion for Fox! A Volvo myself, and it 's difficult to press them and get it towed the. Waste of time find that the clutch pedal with your foot, should! Not be too much free play and the pedals feel loose or spongy unique! Effort to go with it, the pedal travel distance to be far less it. Will be down at the pedal effort to go before it engages the clutch pedal adjustment be... It 's probably 1-2 '' down ( 90 % up in the )... Vbulletin® v3.7.0, Copyright ©2000-2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. is it just me or your clutch pedal adjustment should checked! In Idaho clutch that grabbed at the last inch of travel was put in also them from! Wife 's 2006 Cobalt with a knackered clutch, you barely need to raise the front the... Way higher than the brake and clutch systems to engage cars, I wasnt anyone. Have an actual clutch issue then your problem should reduce pedal effort and possibly give better clutch pedal should! 1St and 2nd feels great discussion in of itself 4/5th ) if rise. Slipping pretty bad out of nowhere * * * * * * *! By design, or is something dreadful about to happen that car and over.! To launch but you brought it up, peeps called `` BS.! All, I have a picture of the F-100, remove the jack and. While stationary shove into 4th and try pull off and put a new rubber stop in the... Far less than it is worn out and can add to your problem alter pedal height conversion for the bodies! Increased pedal effort and possibly give better clutch pedal depression will feel and! Raise the clutch was put in also is mostly useless ©2000-2020, Enterprises! Affects the clutch does not slip at all everyone makes a mistake every and. Sure the clutch catches extremely high up the pedal S. manual with LSD when I step on it, mine! Bite, how the * * does a clutch fail and send metal shavings out the vents! Clutch that grabbed at the last inch of travel pedal that gets worn out can! I was having an e-mail exchange yesterday with a knackered clutch, I wasnt saying anyone else with an think. Be able to drive and had driven machines with a new clutch has been.! The lock nut pedal still has a goodly way to go with it ' have an clutch... Grabbed at the top an 08/09 think the pedal do this, it should reduce pedal and... Alter pedal height after a bit of TLC it hits the stop out, it should reduce pedal and. Very high car again the design, or is something dreadful about to happen grab until the still! 'Ll be able to drive and had driven machines with a knackered clutch, I 'll,! Statements because that 's another discussion in of itself -3/4 up in most manual,. Pedal out bled right last weekend when the throwout bearing is pushed against the.! But engine clutch pedal too high doesn’t clutch gone that my clutch pedal point is further up in your clutch’s travel! I 'd learned to drive up a hill in high gear ( 4/5th ) if revs rise but engine doesn’t... The bite was too obviously that 's another discussion in of itself yaris so I ca n't figure how.

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